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Tel: 031 - 267 1762 (Westville)
031 - 564 4244 (Durban North)
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When I think of Italian cooking I think of warmth; I think of red-checked table-cloths; I think of people laughing. But more than anything else, I think of comforting food that only Mamma could make. Ciao Itallia doesn't disappoint on any fronts except that the checked table-cloths are replaced by pristine white ones. There are even two locations to choose from (Westville or Durban North) both using the same menu of Italian classics and a specials menu which varies daily and from branch to branch.

First stop - Blue Heights Centre, Westville. The venue is rather minimalist in décor but the vibe of the surrounding tables more than makes up for the barren walls. Starters include traditional Italian stalwarts like beef carpaccio and antipasto platters but I opted for the simply prepared grilled calamari with lemon and herbs. My partner in crime for the evening was Mumsy-dearest again who also opted for calamari but with a slight twist. Hers came off the specials menu and involved olives and chourico sausage. Two steaming bowls of gloriously smelling bodies were placed before us a short wait later. The problem with calamari is that a minute too long results in rubbery tendrils of white flesh which take hours to chew and even longer to digest. My calamari was beautifully tender and succulent. Mom's was even more delicious having taken on the smokiness of the sausage. Salty from the olives with the gloriously vehement punch of chilli emanating from the chourico.

For mains I opted for a simple roast chicken dish combining the tastes of herbs, chilli and bay leaves served with crispy potatoes and still crunchy veggies. Mom went for the shrimp pasta flavoured with a shot (or three) of vodka. I was presented with two deboned golden brown chicken breasts atop a colourful display of seasonal vegetables. The chicken practically melted in my mouth oozing with juices flavoured by the heat of the chilli yet soothed by the bay leaves - delightful combination. Mom's pasta arrived piping hot and bright pink. Al dente pasta topped with a tomato-based shrimp sauce with a generous splash of Russia's greatest export and amalgamated with a dash of silky cream. The result was a gastronomic delight - a slightly sweet, slightly boozy very comforting bowl of 'love'. There is a huge selection of main courses from pizzas to pastas to risottos to steaks. Even the most discerning diner is bound to find something to tantalise his tastebuds.

A lot of restaurants are guilty of not paying much attention to their dessert menus. Ciao Itallia would be vindicated of all charges - berry torte, chilli cheesecake, sorbet and hazelnut kisses graced the menu. Mumsy-dearest went for the berry torte - a heavenly combination of short-crust pastry topped with a honey-coloured silky yellow custard and crowned with a selection of berries floating on a puddle of glossy black syrup. Why, oh why do I have to have diabetic tendencies? What choice did I have but to drown my sorrows in a frothy cappuccino. After all that I realised that things could be a lot worse - I could have an allergy to coffee!

So onto Durban North. Still relatively new - but it was pretty busy on a Saturday night so they can't be doing too much wrong. After Westville, Durban North certainly had their work cut out!

I started with a pork terrine on a bed of haricot beans in a Dijon mustard sauce. Perhaps I envisaged something a lot lighter but I can't say that this was memorable - just too stiff and gelatinous for my liking. Mom opted for the Dorado fishcakes - light, fluffy and very good. Sardine lovers were able to treat themselves to this either 'love-it-or-hate-it' fish starter.

I've always been a fan of the specials menu because usually only the freshest produce is used - the seasonal ingredients which are at their very best. Bearing this in mind I opted for the 'Bohemian fillet' - a big chunk of matured beef split in half and smeared with brandy-laced chicken liver pate served with a creamy garlic and thyme sauce atop a dollop of veg. Nicely cooked to specification but you can't really get a steak horribly wrong unless you fry it to death. Mom also went with the specials menu settling for a generous serving of 8 huge Mozambiquan prawns fried in butter and olive oil and finished off with a can of Black Label beer which is reduced and thickened with fresh cream. Oddly enough served with chips. The prawns were large and luscious, the sauce creamy with a hint of sweetness - a definite winner.

Pudding choices were limited to Tiramisu, hazelnut kisses and ice-cream with hot chocolate sauce. Well unless you fly the ice-cream directly in from Italy and use the finest quality chocolate with 80% cocoa I'm not going to be impressed. We decided to play it safe and just finish off with a good, strong cup of coffee.

Ciao Itallia is the kind of place that you can visit over and over again and just not get bored. You have a restaurant resonating with the sound of people enjoying themselves. A busy hub of excitement as patrons linger over their scrumptious meals. Knowledgeable waiters who can direct you in making the best choice possible. This is not the kind of food that Mamma makes - it is so much better! Given the choice I would choose Westville over Durban North but both are worth more than just one visit!